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Sardine Can squeezes out those flavour profiles from a kitchen too small for standard equipment, similar to Judas Goat down the street (only the Spanish incarnation of the Waldorf`s chef-in-residence saw a kitchen with gas burners). An octopus, potato and chorizo stew ($10), much like the tomato toast, gives a good dose of nostalgia, the sort where the memory`s probably not quite right but the feeling is all the same. The meatballs cooked in Rioja red and tomato ($10) reaches for the same achievement, but for its unfortunate density and heft. The patatas bravas ($5) provides a good reminder that I didn`t get much from the dish across the Atlantic, either. But it`s the arroz la bomba ($10) - little arancina-esque balls of paella rice - that sums it all up best: nothing here is exactly the same as that tiny place in La Ribera, nor should you expect it to be. Two glasses of grenache later and it all goes down easy. (Particularly if you end off with the chocolate terrine ($5.50) with olive oil and sea salt, a dessert I almost wish I saw more of in Spain itself.)