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ELIE SAAB is always in the market for making women look beautiful - that`s simply what he does.
"She`s always beautiful," he said, serene and calm backstage before the show - though inside he confessed to feeling "volcanic" and very nervous.
For autumn/winter his plan of attack to do beautiful is in a "Russian way". "It`s about the embroidery especially," he said, that and a "structure and style that is a contradiction, mixing the masculine and the feminine".
This is an idea that has especially captured the imagination of designers this season, but here it was more about sections of the collection - beginning with sharp and precise cropped tuxedo jackets, trousers with corsetted waists, jumpsuits and capes with severe slits to release the arms, before that femininity snuck in. It did so via sheer layers to create caped sleeves and there were dirndl skirts on waisted dresses that stopped short at the knee to continue with that Russian theme - lace and beads and of course embroidery dancing at hems or encasing arms.
We went back and forth a bit and switched between the two - androgyny and dreams - for zip slits on skirts of a graphic and utilitarian nature and then Saab`s signature shimmer - black and indigo and beaded purple gowns that call for grand occasions. We don`t necessarily all have them to go to but that`s when Saab`s daywear options step in. We know he can do red carpet glamour and he does but he`s continuing to broaden his horizons which is never a bad thing to do.